Leisure Letter 051: Ferragosto

Published October 4th, 2024

Italy in August feels like a world unto itself, a time when the streets quiet down, and the beaches burst into life. Restaurants close, shops lock their doors, and for a few weeks, the Italians disappear. If you’re unfamiliar with the ritual, it may seem odd—especially in the height of the tourist season. But everything makes sense once you understand the cultural cornerstone that is Ferragosto, a holiday celebrated on August 15th with roots that dig deep into Italian history.

Ferragosto, or the “Feriae Augusti,” traces its origins back to the first Roman Emperor, Augustus, who established the holiday in 18 BC. The month of August, then as now, marked the end of a grueling agricultural season. The festival was Augustus’ gift to the Roman people, a time for rest and celebration after the hard work of harvesting. Initially, Ferragosto wasn’t just a one-day affair but spanned the entire month, with festivals, feasts, and a notable focus on female deities and the concepts of fertility, health, and abundance. It was a month to celebrate, to feast, and to offer thanks to the gods, particularly those that represented life-giving forces.

In ancient Rome, August was full of feasts. The fifth day of the month honored Salus, the goddess of health. On the 13th, Diana, the goddess of the hunt, had her day of celebration. The month concluded with a tribute to Opis, the goddess of fertility, on the 25th—a holiday attended only by the Vestal Virgins and the Pontifex Maximus. This focus on fertility and the natural cycle of life threaded through the whole month, a time to give thanks for the bounties of the earth and to celebrate life itself.

Fast-forward to more recent centuries, and August still holds its cultural sway. The Catholic Church, recognizing the deep cultural roots of these celebrations, rebranded Ferragosto in the 5th century as the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, a significant religious holiday that aligned neatly with the pre-existing August festivities. The religious procession honoring the Virgin Mary became a central aspect of the day, with towns and villages across Italy putting on processions, feasts, and fireworks in her honor. It was a symbolic continuation of the ancient Roman festivals, though now in a new context. Even today, the Assumption remains a pivotal event of the Italian summer.

The Italian summer itself, in many ways, feels like a continuation of these ancient rhythms. In the south of Italy, August is a time for endless feasts, with every town and village hosting festivals that celebrate local saints, food, and community. You can smell grilled meats and fried treats wafting through the air at dusk as locals gather to eat, drink, and dance well into the night. The celebrations feel ancient, even timeless, as they draw on traditions that have been practiced for centuries. Though the names of the gods have changed, the spirit of these festivals—rest, abundance, and joy—remains the same.

Ferragosto also marks the peak of the Italian vacation season. The beaches of the Amalfi Coast, Sardinia, and the Italian Riviera fill with locals and tourists alike, soaking up the sun in a tradition that goes back generations. Towns like Sabaudia, originally developed for agricultural purposes, have become beachside escapes for Romans and Neapolitans looking to flee the city’s oppressive summer heat.

For many Italians, Ferragosto is not just a holiday—it’s a state of mind. It’s a time to relax, reconnect with loved ones, and revel in the simple pleasures of life: good food, good company, and the sea.

Today, the August exodus is a national pastime. The country slows down, and it’s not unusual to hear more English than Italian in the quieter streets of Rome, Milan, or Florence as locals head to the mountains or coast. Ferragosto may have shifted and evolved over millennia, but its core remains a celebration of life’s fundamental joys: rest, renewal, and revelry.

For those who find themselves in Italy in August, Ferragosto is an invitation to slow down. It’s a time to leave behind the rush of everyday life and surrender to the languid pace of summer. There’s a certain magic in knowing that for centuries, people in these lands have paused in this very way—to feast, to celebrate, to bask in the sun and embrace the beauty of summer.

Though the origins of Ferragosto are ancient, the spirit of the holiday is alive and well in modern Italy. It’s a month of festivals, food, and joy—a cultural treasure that Italians have preserved and cherished for over two millennia. The ancient Romans may have celebrated it first, but the modern iteration remains just as vital, a month to revel in the warmth of life and the traditions that make Italy unique.

For the sake of reverie, let’s just assume there was a layover in Cannes. One day, maybe two. Which is probably unlikely, as Cannes is typically the grand destination, and would never suffer the injustice of being merely a “stop along the way” . . . but we can . . . just for this once . . . assume. Our overview should prove helpful nonetheless.

As you’re undoubtedly aware, the term “Cannes” refers to but one of the glittering, sunspangled jewels adjoining France's Côte d'Azur. More notably it is home to the most prestigious film festival in the measurable universe, drawing in for the entire month of May, as if by implacable gravity, what many would judge to be the most glamorous ladies and gents in the world. Movie stars, artists, the cultural elite . . . It’s a wonderful time, to be sure. But it’s not the only time.

Not by a longshot. And you may be glad to know that Cannes is not just a sanctuary for sunbathers and movie stars . . . but a treasure trove of hidden gems for those who crave a unique, off-the-beaten-path experience. Picture yourself, a modern dandy, reveling in the luxuriant yet relaxed ambiance of this glamorous coastal metropolis. Here’s your guide to eating, sleeping, and breathing the luxurious, highly aesthetic essence of Cannes.

Let the day begin in Le Suquet, the historic heart of Cannes. There you may as well be stepping into an impressionistic dreamscape. As the sun rises, the cobblestone streets glisten with a warm glow, and the air fills with the constant aroma of freshly baked goods from quaint boulangeries. Ancient stone buildings, adorned with cascading bougainvillea, betray silent echoes of a burning history, while the distant sound of the harbor awakens the promise of a new day. Here, in this enchanting quarter, the essence of old-world Riviera elegance blends into the vibrant pulse of modern life, offering a serene yet invigorating ambiance to get things started.

Moving on! A change of pace! . . .

. . . Now I once heard a sad lady say, “If you’ve seen one beach you’ve seen em’ all!” What a remarkable sentiment, I thought to myself, I’ll never visit another beach again . . . Well, fortunately for you, myself, and everybody else, her sentiment could not have been farther from the truth. As you will come to see, Cannes forbids this hypothesis entirely. Of course it is renowned for its pristine beaches, but to truly immerse yourself in the authentic experience, you will want to seek out the more secluded coves and pools of renewal. The Plage du Midi, located west of the Old Port, offers a tranquil retreat with its white colored sands, lapped ever so gently by the soft waves blown halfway across the Medi. The atmosphere is utterly charming and relaxed, richly colored: like some impossible California, reconfigured by the masterful brush of Matisse. Do yourself a favor and lay back with a good book, a glass of chilled white, and a bowl of fresh fruit. The horizon is the limit.

For a more exclusive experience, head to Île Saint-Honorat, one of the Lérins Islands. Accessible by a short ferry ride, this island is home to a Cistercian monastery and some of the clearest waters you’ll ever see. Spend your afternoon snorkeling or simply lounging by the shore, surrounded by the island’s serene beauty and the monks’ vineyards.

Cannes is steeped in history, much of which can be explored through its less frequented museums and sites. The Musée de la Castre, perched atop Le Suquet, offers panoramic views of the city and the bay. Housed in a medieval castle, the museum showcases a diverse collection of art and artifacts from around the world, a fascinating juxtaposition to Cannes’ modern-day glitz.

Film enthusiasts should not miss the Cinéma de la Plage, an open-air theater on the beach that screens classic and contemporary films during the Cannes Film Festival. This tradition, started in the 1940s, encapsulates the city’s longstanding love affair with cinema, offering a magical movie-watching experience under the stars.

Another hidden gem is the Villa Domergue, the former home of painter Jean-Gabriel Domergue. This art deco mansion, with its exquisite gardens and stunning views, often hosts art exhibitions and cultural events. It’s a quiet haven where you can appreciate both art and nature, away from the usual tourist crowds.

For accommodations, the InterContinental Carlton Cannes delivers the ambiance. Built along up to the very shore of the Riviera, it is colored with the spirit of Cannes’ cinematic history and coastal charm. This Belle Époque marvel, with its intricate façade and storied past, has been the setting for numerous legendary moments, from film stars frequenting its suites to grand festivities echoing within its opulent halls. As the sun sets, the Carlton's terrace transforms into a bountiful oasis, alive with the music of conversation and trinklings of glass dish and drink. Under the shade of palm trees and the soothing murmur of the Mediterranean breeze, guests can enjoy carefully crafted cocktails that embody the relaxed yet vibrant essence of Cannes. Each drink offers a unique blend of flavors, providing the perfect setting for an evening steeped in quiet history and modern enthusiasm.

In Cannes, the true luxury lies in discovering some charming nook in among its intricate spread, or the rarefied indulgence of an umbrella, a towel, and a bright patch of sand. By sparing no expense on culinary escapades, basking on the lesser-known beaches, and becoming immersed in the rich cultural tapestry, you’ll experience a side of this iconic city that will forever endure as a symbol of leisure in its ultimate aspect. So, embrace your inner dandy and let Cannes reveal its secrets to you.